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Sewing Tutorial - How to sew bias tape with Stitch-in-the-Ditch method

April 09, 2019

Sewing Tutorial - How to sew bias tape with Stitch-in-the-Ditch method

In this easy tutorial I will show you how to sew a double fold (or single) bias tape onto a fabric edge using the stitch in the ditch method. This method can hide the thread on the front side and give your project a clean look. Use the same thread color as your fabric for a better finish (I used a different color thread to demonstrate how it's done).

1. Before sewing the bias tape, check to see which side longer. For single fold bias tape, you should be able to tell right away.
Longer side of bias tape
2. Unfold the double fold bias tape, and align the SHORTER side to the right side of the fabric. This would be the same for single fold.
Align bias tape edge to raw edge of fabric
3. Stitch along the fold.

Stitch long the fold of the bias tape
4. Fold the bias tape over the edge of the fabric. For single fold, the folding method would be the same.

Fold the bias tape over the edge
5. To sew using the stitch in the ditch method, stitch right into the seam where the bias tape is sewn to the fabric. A trick I use to make sure the bottom fold is caught each time, is to use the very tip of your fingernail to feel for the bias tape edge.

Stitch in the ditch by sewing right into the seam
6. Stitch right at the seam, feel for the edge, go slowly if needed.

7. If you're not comfortable with the stich in the ditch method, you can sew right on top instead. It makes for a decorative stitch if you're not aiming for a clean look.


Additional Notes:
Can you sew the bias tape right on top without bothering to stitch it first, fold it over, and sew it again? Absolutely, I did it here:

What would be the point of the more labor intensive method if you could just do the above instead? The above method would work fine with only a straight edge, but if you need to go around a curve, corner, or other shapes, you would need to use the longer method for an easier, cleaner finish.

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